Turning Disco Down - Ashish at LFW AW 13 

It’s so easy for designers these days to jump on the luxe-led aspirations of the emerging markets - vying for attention and ultimately their local currency.

So it’s with light relief that we look to Ashish for his take on AW 2013. Taking things down a notch Ashish has taken inspiration from in some ways out of touch take on the working classes. Maybe Ashish was listening to Pulp a lot when he was coming up with the concept for the collection? Either way, we’re not complaining, we loved the tongue-in-cheek transformation of the everyday, in particular his new slant on the old faithful Hi-Viz vest. 

We particularly liked the muted approach to high-glitz, revelling in flowing, down-played sparkles applied to outsized, floaty forms.

London Street Style: Back to the Future

Whilst one half of this ensemble screams sci-fi femme, the other half dips into demure ladies who lunch. A perfect conflict of new and old, this stylish futuristic lady teams sci-fi oval silver framed sunnies, quilted silver foil sweater over a fluorescent green t-shirt, black loose jeans, hyper-real bright tri monk strap shoes with a vintage plush fur coat and needlepoint bag.

London Street Style: Ethereal Futurism

An ethereal purity breathes fresh air into this formal futuristic ensemble. Teaming a modernist structured leather paneled zip-up jacket over a smart roll neck and flared trousers twin-set.

PFW A/W 13 Editor’s Pick - Comme des Garcons Homme Plus

Rei Kawakubo gives her own unique spin on the season’s rich ethnic and tapestry trend, with a series of loose and flowing eastern pajama inspired silhouettes in a series of interesting fabrics for the a/w 13 Comme des Garcons menswear collection. We picket this dreamy psychedelic peach ensemble as our editor’s pick, teaming peach loose suiting in bobbly chenille over an elongate white shirt and accessorised with pale peach formal platforms and a playful black Mickey Mouse cap.

LCM Street Style A/W 13 - Smart Mariner

Nautical sensibilities are key in this mariner look we spotted during London collections: men, teaming a shrunken nautical crew neck knit over a white t-shirt, 70’s baggy trousers, eastern print shopper and finished off with J.W. Anderson brogue creeper hybrids.

Paris Fashion Week A/W 13 - Raf Simons

Raf Simons’ proclaimed that the A/W 13 collection aims to shake menswear up and present a new proposition to the current menswear silhouette.  Incorporating many elements from dandy sensibilities seen in slender shapes, 70’s exuberant detailing and layering to the use of playful cartoon repeats seen throughout. A representation of Simons fascination with the psychology of cartoon characters, which included classic dandy panto tale Puss ‘n’ Boots.

Simons has of cause been hinting towards a new shift in menswear for the last couple of seasons, when shirting was given a contemporary 70’s vibe with a series of exaggerated collaring in his Spring 13 collection. But this is a new vision, gone are the boxy neoprene shapes and futurism in favour of a new naturalism using just simple clothing in cotton and wool.

From the retro inspired snug fitting conversational pattern tanks teamed over long collared disco shirts and floor length loose fitting trousers in shiny satin and wool.  Whilst dandified silhouettes included a series of fit-and-flare coats created a dramatic twist between Edwardian formality and medical coats, bright coloured pointy shirting teamed with roll necks to lightweight safari shirting.

This is a timely approach to the current menswear climate, ‘moving back to go forward’ has worked and draws uncanny similarities to Miuccia Prada’s own seventies apartment lounge wear inspired collection. With both designers this season ultimately encouraging men to shake it up, gently pushing forward a new and less severe approach to style in favour of loose fitting basic with a 70’s slant.

London Collections Men A/W 13 - Matthew Miller

“Generation Content/Content Generation” is the statement of intent menswear designer Matthew Miller has set for his A/W 13 collection. A collection triggered by Miller’s belief that the hip Generation X is merely a notion of rebellion and is in turn a forty years out-of-date ideology, a collection that reclaims and re-appropriates Generation X’s uniform.

Sound-tracked by teenage angst idols Nirvana, Generation X inspired uniforms are updated into contemporary utilitarian interpretations of tailoring, suits, overcoats and raincoats. One by one models in a largely black-orientated palette came out, every bit the vision of chic modern rebels in a series of  sporting slick updated tailoring and knitwear emblazoned with the reoccurring slogan “Born To Fail”. Embossed crocodile leather reoccurs throughout from a rebellious biker jacket to modernist paneling on sweaters and t-shirts, a representation of Generation Y’s disregard for endangered species. Whilst other highlights included sporty military styles from wool suits paired with over-sized backpacks to red sport stripe placement blazers.

Even with the complexities of Matthew Miller’s concept, this is easily his most approachable and wearable collection to date. Producing a strong mix of smart sportswear and tailoring hybrids, a perfect wardrobe for the modern 2013 man.

Milan Menswear Fashion Week Editor’s Pick - Burberry Prorsum A/W 13

Safari vibes throughout this look from Burberry Prorsum’s A/W 13 collection. Teaming large leopard print rim sunglasses, sleek vibrant leopard print trench and finished with a pair of smart leopard lace-ups brogues.

Milan Menswear Fashion Week - Jil Sander A/W 13

Second collection into Jil Sander’s return and we are served an A/W 13 collection that invokes military themes in a collection entitled “Epic masculinity”. A collection that seeks to re-affirm masculinity, whilst progressing and reinventing, introducing feminine shapes seen best in the armless knitwear suiting to the use of unconventional fur paneling. 

Silhouettes are not overtly military, instead subtly hint at the influence from the use of varying green hues to bold reds in a series of long-line Calvary collared overcoats, gradient tartan cocoon shaped pea coat to detachable fur collars used on tall collared double-breasted blazers and knitwear. Texture and pattern remained key throughout; from pony skin placement roll necks to furry collars. Whilst prints ranged from material gradients to boyhood nostalgia, from statement crisscross mark knitwear to

monochrome blocking and tartan gradients.

LCM Street Style A/W 13 - Winter Voodoo Style

Inspired by the first of the snowy showers currently outside the LSJ office, this stylish chap’s unique take on novelty winter jumpers is making us totally jealous. Teaming a Shaun Samson oversized furry voodoo print sweater, casual 50’s blue denim turn-ups and finished off with smart smoky blue and alert orange trim boaters.

London Collections Men A/W 13 - Nicole Farhi

Nicole Farhi’s presentation during London Collections Men felt like a new beginning, as January 2012 saw a new owner of Nicole Farhi take over and subsequently appointed a new creative director too: Joanna Sykes of Aquascutum. Starting a new chapter was the plan and so this was a stripped back presentation compared to the usual full blow catwalk show during Milan fashion week, consisting of a modest capsule collection.

The label’s production is a key change, with eighty percent of all production being now produced in Italy, an attempt to step back to Nicole Farhi’s luxurious sensibility. A move that saw a collection which strongly focused on exquisitely produced separates, from sharp neutral single-breasted tailoring, chunky cable knits, contrast stripe shirting, slim fitting trousers, a cashmere-blend smoky lavender pea coat, leather and shearling aviator to a boyish geometric black & white jumper.

London Collections Men A/W 13 - YMC

YMC (You Must Create) has quietly become one of London’s must visit menswear shopping destinations. Founded in 1995 by Fraser Moss and Jimmy Collins, the label initially took inspiration from work wear, the football terraces of the early 80s, the tradition of outward bound attire and American and British military wear. Entitled ‘Dead Inside’ this is a collection born out of YMC designer Moss’ frustration and lack of inspiration from modern culture. Resulting in a collection inspired by Moss’ response to looking back to the beginning and revisiting all the things that inspired YMC’s creation.

For A/W 13-14 YMC looked back to the rich sub cultural aesthetics of the post-punk era. The resulting collection saw models styled in art-house berets, as a statement of intent representing the freedom, revolution and the rebellious attitude of youth culture. Which included a slick zip accented black leather jacket, tailored work-wear teamed with buttoned down linen shirt, pinstripe double-breasted suit, statement multi zip black parachute chinos, a quilted bomber and pajama-esque blazer, modernist sport bottle green tracksuit, wax wool and leather trimmed covert coat, checkerboard waxed parka. Whilst knitwear remained a key element for the label, from a bottle green mohair granddad cardigan, thick space-dye crew necks, waffle scarf and jumper twin-set, zip minimal cardigans, to thick knits with boyhood hexagonal and argyle prints.

LCM Street Style A/W 13 - Bombay Dick Tracy

Spotted at London Collection Men we spotted this stylish chap wearing a fusion of Dick Tracy tailoring juxtaposed with eastern prints. Teaming a fedora with white sci-fi inspired sunglasses, camel overcoat, white shirt, east meets west single breasted suit, brown crocodile luxe leather tote and gold studded brogues.

LCM Street Style A/W 13 - Urban Ski

Straight off the alps this look teams ski sports elements to streetwise shapes. Teaming a square beaked cap under a burnt orange over-sized hooded cagoule, graffiti & paint splashed draw string shorts and accessorized with a pink furry backpack and fuchsia and black hybrid trainers.

Milan Fashion Week Editor’s Pick - Prada A/W 13

First shot from the finale of Prada’s A/W 13-14 collection, set amongst an amazing display of mid-century modernist apartment furniture.