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Seventies vibes echo through this colour popping power suited gentlemen we spotted at London Fashion Week. Teaming a vibrant cosmetic raspberry red single-breasted suit with statement accessories from retro round rose tinted sunglasses to ensemble matching vibrant trainers.
Ashish’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection was a continuation of his fascination with globalisation and nomadic and western fashion fusions. Alongside the strong urban street fashion styling made evident through a cool choice of half street cast models.
The collection followed on from Ashish’s previous use of Arabic repeat texts, patterns and layering from past seasons, this time Ashish is literal in his approach incorporating a series of tongue-in-cheek showpieces of Arabian-inspired jewellery including a bejewelled shoulder jewellery and golden crowns.
Coca Cola logos were seen on everything from racer-backed tanks, to red, white, and blue sequinned outfits, which nodded to the popular American soft drink. East met West themes were introduced through Arabic script repeats, and produced through sheer two-pieces to knee length abayas. Whilst the designer’s signature sequinned deconstructed denim came in streetwise bomber jackets, rustic hole ridden jeans and shorts.
After seeing great success last season, Sophia Webster’s kitsch take on shoe design shows no sign of styling down for Spring Summer 2014. Prints, patterns, quirky wordsmithing, little delightful details and out there dreamy shapes tie together the collection, bravely standing out from the black, blocky, modern shoe crowd.
Capturing the zeitgeist completely, Webster manages to nod to the Pret A Porter featured mid-90s hit, ‘Here comes the hotstepper’ by Ini Kamoze – adding instant fun. Sharpness conflicts with jovial design, particularly the none too subtle message ‘<3 <3 Killer <3 <3’ lime green strappy heels. Another exciting, fresh and very London collection, which will no doubt create glee next summer.
As quirky as ever, House of Holland failed to disappoint with a warm, fun and tongue-in-cheek collection. Flirty femininity takes precedence for Holland, with a none to subtle ode to the 1950s. Flirty full skirts, shapely pencil skirts and cheeky lace is adding va-va voom, stylized with tough modernity via tattoos, slick back hair and determined looking models. Reworked prints feature, with ginghams, rose print tattoo and Hawaiian prints all having undergone the House of Holland treatment.
Key looks channel DIY pattern dresses, cinching at the waist and buttoned down the front. Pseudo religious imagery, think the Madonna, the Mexican death festival and ithe iconic Baz Luhrman directed, Romeo and Juliet adds darkness and attitude to a collection that otherwise may err on the side of rockabilly.
For Spring/Summer 2014 Christopher Raeburn follows a Mirage theme in his sustainably intelligent womenswear and accessories range.
The collection utilises the many facets that textiles can offer, creating movement, contrast and delicacy across the board. Heavy scuba-like materials kicked off the show, in homage to Raeburns focus on military materials. However, lightweight sheer silks add lightness and fluidity to the collection, showing a flirty side of femininity. Shapes are sophisticated, boxy, and uncomplicated, with attention to detail and tailoring taking centre stage.
In terms of accessories, standout pieces included a tan cape net backpack, adding stylish ease to such a functional garment and a bold aquatic blue backpack with a cinched in, almost bondage strap adding further structure.
Mixing an all-over children art doodles with safari styling this adventurous guy is a perfect example of how to tap into your inner child this summer. Teaming a safari style italian Panama hat and naive crayon art two-piece with statement accessories from a chunky metal necklace, metallic iridescent document holder and tan loafers.
Found in the summer of 2011, London based menswear label Blood Brother combines wearable yet edgy street-wear to provide a unique menswear offering. Blood Brother continue to push the boundaries of London street fashion into a new trajectory. Now stocked in Selfridges new contemporary menswear hall, Blood Brother are constantly raising their profile this season, aided with cool digital prints and on trend silhouettes. Collection highlights include chain pattern varsity jackets, lightweight knitted raglan tops and layered pattern tees.
Check out their cool look-book below which resembles a fine art portfolio rather than a traditional fashion look-book to get a taste of the season ahead.
Taken from Nicholas Kirkwood’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection we love the playful and vibrant colour blocking of these formal shoes.
This season Richard Nicholl showcased his men’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection simultaneously whilst introducing S/HE, a special unisex capsule collection in collaboration with British artist Linder. That saw Linder’s optic photo collage of snakes, hawks and men faces used on a variety street-wear silhouettes including hoodies, sweaters, t-shirts and on the backs of varsity jackets. Sighting the root of inspiration for this season’s collage prints as being derived from retro Seventies porn, being inspired by pictures he found in sex shops in Barcelona.
Whilst other aspects of the collection saw a continuation of his signature minimalist style, teaming lightweight mesh tops in cobalt with new camou/animal print pants, boiler suits in slate grey to slick wet look leather used on trousers or panelled on boxy tees.
Spotted at one of London’s foremost music festivals Lovebox, this stylish chap pairs a unique mixtures of super geek chic and summer floral blooms. From the pair of oversized black rimmed glasses, large floral bloom buttoned down short-sleeve shirt, tailored pleated shorts to the doodle worn white plimsoles.
Classic menswear footwear styles are re-approached through combining unconventional materials with an artisanal manufacturing technique for Diego Vanassibara’s unique collection of footwear.
As a graduate of footwear design and product development from London College of Fashion associated scheme the Cordwainers programme. Vanassibara has gone on to receive positive attention at previous two seasons of London Collections: Men.
Produced in a small family run company within Italy, the hides used in the Diego Vanassibara shoes and boots also come from Italy. Along with the wood placement pieces used in the collection come from a man-grown plantation of sustainable trees within the island of Java, where the wood is carved by a family that has been involved in carpentry for more than a century.
The shoes range from minimalistic batwing brogues in soft smoky blue and nude, navy textured loafers to utilitarian work wear boots in khaki and brown.
Shaun Samson Spring/Summer 2014 collection was a key representation of his transition as a designer.
This season’s collection to some extent was a striped back version, Which sees Samson rein in his earlier more conceptual signature fusion of elongated silhouettes and innovation fabric fusions for a slicker more refined approach to his favoured fascination with modern street wear.
Gone were the complex linings and layering of the past in favour of a feeling of lightness that held the collection together. With every aspect of the collection reflecting this from the easygoing material choices of lightweight materials of organza, sci-fi style silver leather and sporty marl jersey-cotton to the soft colour palette of feminine pastel rose, lilac and mint teamed with urban masculine grey marl, mono pairing and navy wool.
Whist Samson’s choice of silhouettes, continuing an air of ease and lightness through sugar-frosted knitwear, satin luxe performance jackets, chambray silver hemmed boxy tees, silver foil dipped joggers teamed with sheer oversized shirting to casual low-slung shorts. But more complex moments nodded to Samson’s past, adding an extra dimension to the collection. Ranging from material fusions of silver reflective leather and jersey, seen on sweatshirts and short to reflective bugle-bead strips sewn over shirting.
Undeniably this is the styling of a well traveled fella, who wears his cultural discoveries on his sleeves. Mixing up a whole melting pot of culutral references from the dark navy oriental silk kimono outerwear, tribal layered necklaces styled over a crisp white mandarin collared shirt to the statement furry feathered black loafers which finish off this look.
Agi & Sam remain one of the most prominent labels during the London Collections: Men schedule each season. Their youthful, lively aesthetic beams through the wades of menswear collections - creating their now signature designer aesthetic.
As two of the Agi & Sam X Topman dressed owl mascots sit front row, there’s a quiet nod towards the relationships between the recent high street collaboration and this Spring/Summer 2014 collection. Particularly the tailoring which includes brightly coloured suits in a variety of hues to print covered suits the duo have become widely known for.
Agi & Sam have gained a cult demand for their fun use of patterns and prints, even their recent collaboration with Topman chose to concentrate on zoomed in digital wool patterns and owl placements on suits and football inspired street wear. But although this has given the brand a unique stance in the current menswear offering, this has undoubtably dogged the duo with questions of what else can they do? What next? So as we view Spring/Summer 2014 collection there is a distinctive visual shift in direction following on from Autumn/Winter 2013 which sees their penchant for print take a step back. Instead Agi & Sam highlight their talented tailoring eye, introducing new elongated lengths, along with contemporary suiting and boxy shapes in a seduction selection of perfectly paired vibrant colours.
With the main stay of the collection concentrating on slim fitted silhouettes juxtaposed with boxy shapes, from knee length shorts and slim fit ankle grazing trousers paired with boxy sweaters over turtle necks to multi-layered sport inspired suiting. Whereas print and pattern is lifted from the everyday, with London transport’s lurid and distinctive seat patterns repeats being re-appropriated with a contemporary twist. Through long length boxy panelled sweaters, all-over printed suits with coordinating luggage to striped print blocking blazers.