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With little over a month until the second London Collection Men, Topman and Fashion East’s most anticipated menswear showcase of the season MAN has been revealed. The three designers showing their collections on the 7th January include the return for the third time of print maestros Agi & Sam and subculture swagger Astrid Anderson, along with newcomer Craig Green whose eerie minimalism was a real highlight at the s/s 2013 fashion east exhibitions.
Best know for their playful and forward thinking print, Agi & Sam have been causing a storm amongst London fashion week for the past few seasons. Spring/summer 2013 saw the duo’s second appearance at the influential MAN show at London Mens Collection.
Inspired by the past, Agi & Sam take inspiration from their memories of being made to watch 1980s detective series on TV at their grand-parents’ homes. Models were quirky and fun walking down the catwalk with slicked back hair and fake mustaches.
Using iconic 80’s silhouettes seen in Magnum P.I. and Miami Vice to theme the collection, from updated sportswear inspired shell suits, over-sized relaxed trenches, slim fitting biker jackets and blousons to classic short armed double-breasted tailoring.
But the main stage of the collection remained with the inventive prints, from the quaint ye old England embroidery invitation to the print socks produced in collaboration with Japanese company Tabio. Prints are fused into almost every piece from the Hawaiian-esque tonal exaggerated florals on ties, swimming shorts and trousers, needlepoint embroidery print on tailoring and fun twin-sets, modern prairie sportswear to pattern on pattern pastel pajama inspired prints on short twin-sets and formal trenches.
This is definitely one of the most memorable collections from the season, perfectly teaming tongue in cheek prints with wearable tailoring and luxe sportswear.
Agi & Sam have a produced a ‘how to’ Lookbook for Spring/Summer 2013.
Menswear brand Phenomenon definitely caught our attention with it’s collection of punchy prints and youth focused silhouettes for spring 2013. Showcasing sport inspired streetwear from tie-dye placement and gradient prints on casual short 2 pieces, sporty vented formal shirting, to unconventional loose fitting tees emblazoned with childlike crest motifs, mesh and punchy summer garden florals.
Futurism is given a new interpretation in Hiromichi Ochiai’s spring/summer 2013 Facestasm collection. Juxtaposing minimalistic silhouettes in sleek technical fabrics over contrasting textured layered fabrics. With layering definitely being Ochiai’s signature look applying dramatic layering across the entire 38 looks, while other silhouettes included satin layered deconstructed blousons, reverse aprons, sheer leggings, chiffon skirts to utiltarian trousers with vented knees.
Riding on a roller-coaster of bohemian sixties we selected this Edie Sedgwick-esque look from Balmain’s spring/summer 2013 collection. Tight cropped biker leather tank and mini skirt is finished off with Sedgwick statement giant hoops dangling stylishly off each ear.
images courtesy of style.com
Set to a quirky background of thrills, dresses, real peoples legs and bin liners, this season’s Christopher Shannon A/W 2012 collection took inspiration from urban landscape of Matthieu Kassovitz’s iconic gritty french black and white film La Haine.
Urban sportswear continues to be a big influence in Shannon’s choice of silhouettes and materials this season, giving us an energetic mix of casual and smart silhouettes from blousons with leather arms, statement front pockets and zipped technical fabric joggers to black and white checked shirts teamed with fleecy jackets with exposed pockets along its sleeves.
Whilst Shannon’s use of urban emblazoned slogans, inverted graphics and oversized geo’s in a bleak palette of black, white and grey reference the stark urban iconography present within La Haine.
Step into the future and Prabal Gurung envisions slick rounded shapes in technical fabrics of gold metallics to sheen stealth silk in his A/W 2012-13 collection. Dramatic teal eye shadow teamed with minimal clean centre parted hair arch back to some kind of contemporary buck rogers or sci-fi soap opera. Whilst a choice colour palette of gold metallic, royal blue and maya blue fused with intricate sculptural mirrored prints help support Gurung’s futurist fantasy.
Last weekend saw the debut Kenzo menswear collection under the creative direction of Opening Ceremony maestros Humberto Leon and Carol Lim. As with their own global retail empire and label Lim and Leon have their finger on the essence of cool, their debut menswear collection for Kenzo doesn’t fail to disappoint.
The a/w 2012-13 Kenzo collection is full of playful 1970’s themes from micro woven retro paisley and dots prints, tapered 50’s shaped pleated trousers, statement ornate prints and our favourite a oversized graphic grid pattern clash cosmetic red and white contrast blouson.
For Lim and Leons first outing this is definitely a fresh, playful and on trend collection. As with Opening Ceremony Leon and Lim have the ability to create ever so slightly stylish must have products that will always be desirable.
This look at the Raf Simons autumn/winter 2012-13 collection at Paris fashion week provided us with our pick of the day. Creating boxy silhouettes in this look Raf Simons creates baggy layering effect teaming a gradient tri-coloured jumper, oversized shirt styled on top of a tailored shirt producing an interested contrast of shapes in clashing autumnal palettes of teal, bottle green, aubergine.