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Sticking on a shoe theme, these acidic neon lime python slip on statement menswear shoes from Paul Smith are our press day pick of the day.
We have been super busy this week at LSJ with lots of amazing new features coming very soon. So we leave you with pictures of the delicious refreshments from yesterdays press days.
Palmer//Harding is a womenswear and menswear shirts based label whose mission is to both elevate and innovate the perceptions of what the basic white shirt can be, bringing shirt design into a modern and contemporary setting. Believing contemporary shirt design to be woefully overshadowed and neglected.
Designers Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding established this relatively new label back in early 2011 after meeting while both studying fashion design at London’s Central Saint Martins in 2007. Before the label was even conceived the pair had been producing and collaborating on various projects and collections since 2009.
For their second NEWGEN sponsored season Palmer and Harding’s A/W 2012 collection is inspired by the juxtaposition of sculptural and fluid design, referencing Bruno Walpoth’s wooden sculptural portraiture as a main point of inspiration. His ability to create intricate sculptures that emote personality, tenderness and fragility inspired Palmer and Harding to infuse bold sculptural, tactile and sensual shapes into this seasons shirt designs. Whilst the photographs produced by George Platt Lynes influenced the idea of movement, ease and contrast of textures into this season silhouettes and fabrics choices.
As a white shirt obsessive we were impressed by their incredible attention to detail and skills of transforming a classic staple into something that both compliments it’s original aesthetic whilst creating conceptual and innovative designs. This season traditional shirt silhouettes and detailing were turned upside down in a series of striking updates including elongated shirt tails, dramatic double layering, obtuse long line cuts, block colour contrast panelling to contrast yoke. All produced in a subtle minimal palette of white, black and earth tones. Where Palmer and Harding succeeded is their understanding of the balance between tradition and experimentation.
You can check out more photographs from their A/W 2012 collection or buy their S/S 2012 on their website here.
For Autumn/Winter 2012 Julian Zigerli was chosen to showcased his collection at Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s seasonal men’s Ones to Watch show. The Swiss born designer launched his first collection immediately after leaving University of Art in Berlin whilst simultaneously having collection shortlisted for the Swiss design prize in 2011. This is no surprise as Zigerli’s fall collection is both technically innovative, whilst maintaining stylish wearable designs.
The show opened with a whimsical marl knitted sweater and shorts teamed with matching scarf followed by a quilted ditzy floral body warmer and trouser two-piece. Fabric fusions are used widely from contrast panelled arms on a miliary-esque shirt to a sporty technical fabric statement block hem on a pair of casual brown trousers, whilst the real show stoppers are the playful hybrid technical fabric shirt and rucksacks combinations coming in white and black.
This is definitely a menswear designer to watch out for if this collection is anything to go by, its absolutely bursting with ideas from the boyhood playful print matching twin-sets, contrasting material panelling shirts to the technical experimentation of Zigerli’s designs.
Here are a few glimpses of the beautiful images from Julian Zigerli’s Fall 2012 look book. Showcasing boyhood tribes, movement and nomad adventures in a series of interesting colour and black and white editorial imagery.
With the sheer mass of menswear designers exhibiting at London Fashion Week this season, we wanted to spotlight the majority the designers we saw during the day, so slowly but surely we will be showcasing some of the amazing menswear on display during Mens day.
First up is Turkish menswear designer Serdar Uzuntas’ fun Olympic ceremony themed A/W 2012 presentation. Inspired by mid-century work wear, Ivy league and English public school’s Serdar Uzuntas presented a menswear collection which presented tough wearable tailoring for the modern man in subdued heritage colours of smokey blue, camel and granite grey. Uzuntas modern, minimalist and loose silhouettes felt like a modern homage to the past in a series work wear hybrids from rugged corduroy blazers reworked with sporty detailing from sweater cuffs, zip-up technical roller necks and the hybrid nero collars. This is a collection that definitely broods with masculine English sporty style
Sorapol hosted their off-schedule a/w 2012 collection within the depths of the eerie Old Vic Tunnels, London last night. Their collection ‘Iron Grip’ is a fantastical tale of an orphaned girl born into a time of Russian nobility and revolutions whose dramatic life becomes the primary inspiration for a/w 2012. Sorapol re-imagine the turbulent tale in a series of elaborate and opulent clothing with a twist of atmospheric darkness and sinister emotions.
Historic regal russian clothing and silhouettes dominate throughout from elaborate fox fur layering, sparkling Tsarist calvary silver jewel embellished suiting to a dramatic sculptural gold dress that closed the show.
We’re feeling like the powers above are controlling our lives, our banks and general legislation seems to be pulling un-employment up and choices down. With that grim summary in mind it was a delight to see jewellery to take us away to somewhere else funnier, cheekier and celebratory of human physiology.
Kyle Hopkins precious, carefully crafted pieces needed a magnifying glass to be studied, but their collective impact was huge.
Although the ear is a lesser celebrated part of the human body, the pieces in bright shining gold and silver stood out for their originality and humour.
Whilst for some next season will be a near-gothic mish-mash of leather (or pleather on the high street) and dark, jewelled tones of purple. This was not the case for Vivienne Westwood Gold Label however.
Not one to follow the crowd, Westwood’s politically motivated designs mix the harshness of what is wrong with our world with light, beautiful and fantasy-filled garments.
Monarchy must have been Westwood’s mind this time around, with her signature hand-made corsetry being as bejewelled as a European queen’s. The old and new were intertwined, with archaic tutu’s contrasting angular tartan hosiery.
Amongst the clashes, the 90’s oriental print stacked platforms, full skirts and thousands of jewels our favourite piece was more simple, white, pristine and pretty - accessorised just right with some classic black courts.
This season’s the Kenzo A/W 2012 womenswear show was staged in the elaborate space atrium of the University of Pierre et Marie Curie. Staged throughout several floors, model’s walked in twos, fours and on their own through a maze of hallways and escalators. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim a.k.a creative duo behind Opening Ceremony wanted to push it this season after last seasons more subdued presentation.
The 50 look strong collection was filled with themes, from fruit motifs, interior shapes and prints to surrealistic aesthetics. Playful Fruit themes reoccur throughout the collection from printed clustered bunches of grapes to walnut and grape shaped jewellery to fun raspberry skirts silhouettes. Highlights included a chic, acidic yellow textured jacket with statement astrakhan fur collar and matching pleated skirt, graphic matching patterns from oversized black-and-white checks to surrealist octopus-esque striped skirt. Whilst cute Kenzo slogan tiger print jumpers in acidic yellow, pea green and oxblood confirm a new era of brand identity.
This season definitely showcased Kenzo’s fun, stylish side from the Magnolia cupcakes on the seats to the inventive and fun interior motif’s. Leon and Lim have definitely brought a younger hip street aesthetic to the brand in turn making this a must see show in the Paris Fashion Week schedule.
Be still my beating heart, as perfection has been achieved via the craftsmanship of Alexander McQueen. Being oh so reminiscent of their beautiful feather dress, but being less structured. A high drama, loud and bold piece, being modern daring and expressive.
Image courtesy of Style.com