Dynamism, multi-textures and acid colour pops set the scene for Leutton Postle’s collection of re-worked street wear.
Textile manipulation is key, with striking contrasts between the shiny, transparent plastic against dense, thickly worked embroidered appliques.
The collection infuses fun, with an essence of sub-cultural roots, disobeying the finely honed fashion rule book. In homage to Chanel’s signature quilting, Leutton Postle’s backpack humorously add a new spin to a functional garment.
A one to watch for the coming seasons, with potential not only for cool-kids.
After seeing great success last season, Sophia Webster’s kitsch take on shoe design shows no sign of styling down for Spring Summer 2014. Prints, patterns, quirky wordsmithing, little delightful details and out there dreamy shapes tie together the collection, bravely standing out from the black, blocky, modern shoe crowd.
Capturing the zeitgeist completely, Webster manages to nod to the Pret A Porter featured mid-90s hit, ‘Here comes the hotstepper’ by Ini Kamoze – adding instant fun. Sharpness conflicts with jovial design, particularly the none too subtle message ‘<3 <3 Killer <3 <3’ lime green strappy heels. Another exciting, fresh and very London collection, which will no doubt create glee next summer.
As quirky as ever, House of Holland failed to disappoint with a warm, fun and tongue-in-cheek collection. Flirty femininity takes precedence for Holland, with a none to subtle ode to the 1950s. Flirty full skirts, shapely pencil skirts and cheeky lace is adding va-va voom, stylized with tough modernity via tattoos, slick back hair and determined looking models. Reworked prints feature, with ginghams, rose print tattoo and Hawaiian prints all having undergone the House of Holland treatment.
Key looks channel DIY pattern dresses, cinching at the waist and buttoned down the front. Pseudo religious imagery, think the Madonna, the Mexican death festival and ithe iconic Baz Luhrman directed, Romeo and Juliet adds darkness and attitude to a collection that otherwise may err on the side of rockabilly.
For Spring/Summer 2014 Christopher Raeburn follows a Mirage theme in his sustainably intelligent womenswear and accessories range.
The collection utilises the many facets that textiles can offer, creating movement, contrast and delicacy across the board. Heavy scuba-like materials kicked off the show, in homage to Raeburns focus on military materials. However, lightweight sheer silks add lightness and fluidity to the collection, showing a flirty side of femininity. Shapes are sophisticated, boxy, and uncomplicated, with attention to detail and tailoring taking centre stage.
In terms of accessories, standout pieces included a tan cape net backpack, adding stylish ease to such a functional garment and a bold aquatic blue backpack with a cinched in, almost bondage strap adding further structure.
Agi & Sam remain one of the most prominent labels during the London Collections: Men schedule each season. Their youthful, lively aesthetic beams through the wades of menswear collections - creating their now signature designer aesthetic.
As two of the Agi & Sam X Topman dressed owl mascots sit front row, there’s a quiet nod towards the relationships between the recent high street collaboration and this Spring/Summer 2014 collection. Particularly the tailoring which includes brightly coloured suits in a variety of hues to print covered suits the duo have become widely known for.
Agi & Sam have gained a cult demand for their fun use of patterns and prints, even their recent collaboration with Topman chose to concentrate on zoomed in digital wool patterns and owl placements on suits and football inspired street wear. But although this has given the brand a unique stance in the current menswear offering, this has undoubtably dogged the duo with questions of what else can they do? What next? So as we view Spring/Summer 2014 collection there is a distinctive visual shift in direction following on from Autumn/Winter 2013 which sees their penchant for print take a step back. Instead Agi & Sam highlight their talented tailoring eye, introducing new elongated lengths, along with contemporary suiting and boxy shapes in a seduction selection of perfectly paired vibrant colours.
With the main stay of the collection concentrating on slim fitted silhouettes juxtaposed with boxy shapes, from knee length shorts and slim fit ankle grazing trousers paired with boxy sweaters over turtle necks to multi-layered sport inspired suiting. Whereas print and pattern is lifted from the everyday, with London transport’s lurid and distinctive seat patterns repeats being re-appropriated with a contemporary twist. Through long length boxy panelled sweaters, all-over printed suits with coordinating luggage to striped print blocking blazers.
Polka dot is turned upside down in this monochrome cocoon shaped blouson from the Rue du Mail’s spring/summer 2013 show in Paris. Teaming a lazer-cut circle linked white skirt with a statement giant orb polka dot sleek sport inspired blouson. Creating a quirky update of the traditional polka dot print.
We have previously posted a piece about London Collections: Men during London fashion week directly after GQ Editor and BFC committee chairman Dylan Jones officially announced the forthcoming event pre-James Long catwalk show. Planning for the event has been in the works for many years ever since the conception of men’s day, Menswear has of course grown in stature becoming an international reference point for innovative design across the world.
If you’re like us a patriotic supporter in the amazing new talent that is currently being produced in the UK then you will surely be revelling in the debut London Menswear fashion event that begins in June, kicking off the Spring 2013 menswear catwalk season.
London is in good stead with more designer’s signing up to the first London Collections: Men schedule including American staple Tommy Hilfiger, Thom Browne which left us shocked and excited plus the return of Jonathan Saunders and Paul Smith whose menswear collection’s are always constant highlights during the Milan and Paris catwalks.
Prior to the schedule being announced the week was kicked off by protestors storming the streets of Savile Row in protest over the planned expansion of American mega brand Abercrombie & Fitch within Savile Row. Dapper gent’s favourite publication The Chap magazine orchestrated the event, a comment not just on the invasion of chain shops on to the iconic street but also on the state of men’s street fashion. The Chap believes people have lost touch with style and have taken the no effort and laid back approach to fashion that is so favourably embraced by Abercrombie & Fitch. Savile Row needs little by way of introduction; its famous tailors are world renowned to pretty much everyone seeking the best of tailoring. Epitomising the underbelly of menswear in the UK’s distinctive aesthetic, being sharp, tailored, quirky and always stylish. Savile Row will have its own presentation slot with London Collections: Men’s HQ at the Hospital Club.
London Collections: Men comes at an amazing time, sure the Queen’s Jubilee and Olympics’ are creating an incredibly international spotlight but with the economy in dire straits this is the time to champion the UK burgeoning fashion industry. Cue Prince Charles whose championing of locally sourced food and British Wool will host a very special reception before the three-day event begins helping bolster it’s profile.
But most of all the three-day event will give young talent that has kept people talking about London for so long access to more buyers and press in-line with the rest of the menswear season. Topman’s NEWGEN initiative continues to support the best of London’s menswear designers including the return of J.W. Anderson, Lou Dalton, Christopher Shannon, Katie Eary and Matthew Miller to name a few.
For the full provisional schedule visit the official website here londoncollections.co.uk
Full list of participating designers below;
If there’s one designer whose collections echo the spirit of youth culture it’s J.W. Anderson. After season’s of carefully watching J.W. Anderson’s career unfold this season was definitely the moment where his showmanship has been knocked up a few notches. For A/W 2012 Anderson looks to the 70’s for inspiration, re-interrupting the golden age of youth culture with a spectrum of bright turtlenecks, cropped flares to graphic and textural knits.
Bold chunky knitwear referenced mariner aesthetics in a series of textured oversize roped grids and optic grill’s, while Statement Fluro tangerine brushed mohair and primary colour turtle necks with pineapple broaches added a dash of colour. Retro prints add a fun twist from Farm yard cockerel motif’s on white sweater’s to the optic illusion 70’s psychedelic swirl two pieces in red and blue.
Shaking the roots of menswear design is always something Anderson has aimed for in his collections, and it rings true throughout this season from unconventional use’s of material, aesthetics to reworked masculine silhouettes. The most dramatic being a series of star war uniform-esque quilted leather all in ones layered with hats, skirts, aprons and laptop cases to rubber shiny look minimalist robed overcoat. The diamond quilted skirts worn over rubber look trousers showcases Anderson’s ability to blur the boundaries between genders, a confident and innovative stance on the future of menswear design.
Whilst at the London Fashion Week Exhibition we took a few photographs of the knitwear on display, we picked out our highlights which included this rainbow block stripe jumper, grid shirt and the luxurious peach brush throw knit with pineapple broach.
Check our photo diary from Lincoln Square at New York Fashion Week taken by our lovely photographer Amie Leeking yesterday.
Images Courtesy of Amie Leeking for The London Style Journal please ask before using elsewhere.
For Autumn/Winter 2012-13 Tim Hamilton is giving his diffusion line Redux its first stand-alone catwalk at New York fashion week. Taking inspiration from equestrian style, every model is styled with equestrian creating a tribe like affect, whilst the majority of the collection consists of casual and wearable items from a wide selection of long johns in marl and popping colours to sweatpants and colourful turtlenecks. For hamilton this was a real shift from his signature grays and black incorporating punchy oranges, pineapples and purples its a gamble that pays off creating a sunny and fresh vision for a guys winter wardrobe.
This ‘Dark Rodeo’ look dominated the Nicholas K A/W 2012-13 collection at New York fashion week today. In a similar vain to last season’s Miu Miu collection, ghoulish stark black colours and zombie-esque make-up styling was a recurring theme throughout the collection. Large cowboy hats, tassel blocking billowed dresses, sheer materials and slick leather all echo the dark Americana influences which underline Nicholas autumn collection.
courtesy of style.com
Acne’s a/w 2012-13 collection utilized grunge’s signature oversized silhouettes and layered styling in a selection of striking fluffy angora knits at Paris fashion week last week. Utilizing a fresh colour palette of pastel mint green, grey blue, vibrant persimmon and white Acne gives these classic knits a contemporary twist. Staying true to grunge aesthetics Acne almost haphazardly layers garments together, but it really works especially when they team two angora knits together combing a mint green cardigan with a thick grey blue pull over.
Last weekend saw the debut Kenzo menswear collection under the creative direction of Opening Ceremony maestros Humberto Leon and Carol Lim. As with their own global retail empire and label Lim and Leon have their finger on the essence of cool, their debut menswear collection for Kenzo doesn’t fail to disappoint.
The a/w 2012-13 Kenzo collection is full of playful 1970’s themes from micro woven retro paisley and dots prints, tapered 50’s shaped pleated trousers, statement ornate prints and our favourite a oversized graphic grid pattern clash cosmetic red and white contrast blouson.
For Lim and Leons first outing this is definitely a fresh, playful and on trend collection. As with Opening Ceremony Leon and Lim have the ability to create ever so slightly stylish must have products that will always be desirable.
This look at the Raf Simons autumn/winter 2012-13 collection at Paris fashion week provided us with our pick of the day. Creating boxy silhouettes in this look Raf Simons creates baggy layering effect teaming a gradient tri-coloured jumper, oversized shirt styled on top of a tailored shirt producing an interested contrast of shapes in clashing autumnal palettes of teal, bottle green, aubergine.
The shirt and waistcoat colour matching combination produces an extra special touch to this layered tailoring look from Pradas Autumn/Winter 2012-13 collection. Whilst the deep cosmetic red of the turtle neck covering the models chin freshens up this subtle cool palette.