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We got all excited when we saw Raf Simons’ reworking of iconic oversized seventies collars on this clinical white shirt from his Spring 2013 collection. Managing to produce a perfect playful twist to the classic formal white shirt.
Brighton’s eccentric, youthful and bohemian spirit is central to Nicole Farhi’s spring/summer 2013 collection, referencing the unique inhabitants individual style producing a collection full of modern dandy attired with a sports-hybrid twist.
Subtle sixties-esque prints are given a smart direction this season through its innovative collaboration with British heritage underwear brand Sunspel, producing under-wear and fusion outwear in light technical fabrics from sheer nylon white elasticated trousers to sheer clinical white short two-pieces.
Elsewhere there was a continuation of last season’s night-time pyjama smart lounge wear, from tailored two-pieces, structured fifties shirt silhouettes, lightweight paisley suits to a wallpaper motif quilted pastel blue blazer. Whilst Brighton’s very British seaside landscape provides a subtle palettes of stark whites, sandy beiges, pebbly greys to light oceanic hues of blue.
The hype around Raf Simons initial offering for Dior has been immense. The tense build up yesterday afternoon could even be felt all the way over here in London thanks to incessant, but much desired updates courtesy of Twitter.
The pairing of Mr. Simons and Christian Dior hinted at genius, but was also anchored by uncertainty. How could a designer famed for his modernist and innovative approach to both women’s and menswear revive Dior post-Galliano? After yesterday’s show, Simons method and approach is now clear.
Obviously, the Dior archive is immense, the ‘New Look’ is still often cited as a key moment in fashion’s history, and has been the mainstay of Dior’s aesthetic ever since. As Simons flirted with the fuller, more womanly design approach in his last collection for Jil Sander he was already in good stead to deliver the Dior visual brand language with his own slant.
The collection offered three main pillars:
'Playing with materials and volume' using mink, astrakhan and textured layering in a fearless move which will no doubt incense PETA, delivering garments with static shapes.
‘Elegant Androgyny’ carefully pairing tailored, straight and functional trousers with gowns, in a non-skort, 90’s way but in an elegant, yet authoritative way.
'Staying true to the brand' pieces whose inception was a direct influence of the archive with new details to bring them up to date. Focus on the bust, accentuating breasts in not overtly sexy way, digital bright printing and simple but effective tailoring added a new take to the much loved Dior staple.
Images courtesy of Giovanni Giannoni for WWD.com
It was only a few years ago that CCO of Burberry Christopher Bailey impressed with his gold lamé trench which was consequentially featured in aeons of futuristic, high-luxe editorial spreads. Not forgetting how to WOW, Burberry Prorsum see today’s men as risk-taking extroverts by the style of their designs.
As men become more focused on the way they look, buying further into fashion and beauty Burberry are allowing themselves to push the boundaries of fashion. Of course, if fashion is not to stimulate it has no purpose. We’re excited to see who, and how these magpie-satiating fabrics and designs will be worn in 2013.
Following on from Prada’s dynamic, gif-laden advertising campaign ‘Parallel Universe’, Miuccia and co. have once again teamed up with artist and designer Vahram Muratyan to produce a range of sunny, fun and cool T-shirts in a capsule collection which will be available from Prada stores mid-July.
Spotted whilst waiting for the Hardy Amies presentation, this 50’s quiffed gent shows his admiration for Jil Sander in this (almost) head to toe look. Teaming a Teal oversized collar shirt with a thick space dye cut off knit, retro high waisted dark navy pleated trousers, black and white sneakers and finished with a yellow python and plastic tote.
Soft, loving, warm and protective are not usually words that would be associated with huge furry beasts that live in the words. But Mulberry manage to add ferociousness to their A/W campaign neatly in part to the lustful and carefree demeanour of Lindsey Wixon. It should be little surprise that Tim Walker shot the campaign, being the master at bringing fantasy to life.
Prada’s drastic turnaround from all things sugar, spice and hot-wheeling did not go un-noticed at their A/W 2012 show earlier in the year. Lightness, pastels and frou-frou styling has been replaced with darker, more 1970s inspired colour palettes including aubergine, deep-rich mocha browns and full-on geometric prints adding dynamism to a comprehensive collection looking like it’s stepped straight out of The Shining.
So it is with little surprise that the A/W 2012 campaign shot by legendary Steven Meisel takes inspiration from A Clockwork Orange and The Shining in terms of the shoot location and aesthetic. In a mirror to sunken rooms of the 1970s and the frightful geometric carpet of the Overlook Hotel the clothes are being displayed in an almost parallel universe, void of nature and context, elevating the status of the garments’ design.
Ahead of our Agi & Sam review from London Collections: Men, we wanted to highlight their amazing collaboration with Tabio socks which we spotted at the Fashion East exhibitions. Scenic english countryside embroidery, tapestry and floral prints are taken straight from their Spring/Summer 2013 collection and placed on these marvelous printed socks.
Taking inspiration from California’s skater kids, Katie Eary provided an energetic mix of aquatic and vintage Versace style baroque prints for her Spring/Summer 2013 show. Over sized silhouettes were key, teaming baggy knee-length shorts with equally voluminous structured sweaters and silk jersey shirts.
Although it was Eary’s inventive use of clashing prints that really turned our heads. Aquatic turquoise twin-sets mixed tranquil wave motif’s with the splendour of golden fish, Man Ray-esque optic baroque sweats to our highlight an opulent three-piece print clash teaming octopus printed trousers with optic fish shorts and a structured baroque fish fusion sweater.
images courtesy of catwalking.com
For Spring/Summer 2013 Lou Dalton moved away from last season’s military inspired love letter in favour of a fusion of tailored 50’s americana luxe with a sporty sartorial twist.
Dalton’s obsession with youth subculture and films such as “Breaking Away” a 1970’s tale of male camaraderie and “Taxi Driver’s” dark American dream echoes throughout the collection. Played out in a series of retro cut t-shirts, tailored knee-length shorts, 50’s bowling shirt classics and retro sport blousons. Fusions of material gave the the collection a modern edge highlighted in a tri-colour blocking classic marl sweater with a plastic-esque front to a panelled black and navy pared down blazer.
Whilst the colour palette was almost entirely a mix of beiges, navy, black and white an injection of an acidic lime short sleeve fine knit tee gave the collection a perfect lift.
Material fusions were central to Christopher Shannon’s South-East Asian backpacking inspired 2013 collection. This minimal ivory two-piece perfectly represents the aesthetic of the collection with Shannon’s dramatic use of material blocking through his avant-garde use of ethnic placket paneling.
Since last year’s furore around John Galliano’s anti-semitic remarks and consequent firing we’ve admired how the label has stayed true to it’s vision under the leadership of long-term Dior employee, Bill Gaytten.
Dior’s resort 2013 is an example of exactly that. A chic, understated end of Gaytten’s tenure before Raf Simons takes the helm for the July couture shows. Farewell Bill, the collection is lovely, a brillianr swan song to a particularly controversial story.
Pre-Spring is a ‘season’ that does befuddle a little. Unnaturally close to neighbouring seasons, with a much smaller window of opportunity, Pre-Spring, or Resort is a ‘season’ which designers struggle to grasp. Do they commit to the local weather patterns? Or commit to the luxuriously extravagant ideal of holidaying away the darker months? So far, the cards are being held close, but we can’t help but admire some of the colours and takes on prettiness that have been coming out so far.
Stella McCartney, Resort 2012
Valentino, Resort 2013
Valentino, Resort 2013