London Street Style: Back to the Future

Whilst one half of this ensemble screams sci-fi femme, the other half dips into demure ladies who lunch. A perfect conflict of new and old, this stylish futuristic lady teams sci-fi oval silver framed sunnies, quilted silver foil sweater over a fluorescent green t-shirt, black loose jeans, hyper-real bright tri monk strap shoes with a vintage plush fur coat and needlepoint bag.

London Street Style: Ethereal Futurism

An ethereal purity breathes fresh air into this formal futuristic ensemble. Teaming a modernist structured leather paneled zip-up jacket over a smart roll neck and flared trousers twin-set.

LCM Street Style A/W 13 - Smart Mariner

Nautical sensibilities are key in this mariner look we spotted during London collections: men, teaming a shrunken nautical crew neck knit over a white t-shirt, 70’s baggy trousers, eastern print shopper and finished off with J.W. Anderson brogue creeper hybrids.

LCM Street Style A/W 13 - Winter Voodoo Style

Inspired by the first of the snowy showers currently outside the LSJ office, this stylish chap’s unique take on novelty winter jumpers is making us totally jealous. Teaming a Shaun Samson oversized furry voodoo print sweater, casual 50’s blue denim turn-ups and finished off with smart smoky blue and alert orange trim boaters.

London Collections Men A/W 13 - YMC

YMC (You Must Create) has quietly become one of London’s must visit menswear shopping destinations. Founded in 1995 by Fraser Moss and Jimmy Collins, the label initially took inspiration from work wear, the football terraces of the early 80s, the tradition of outward bound attire and American and British military wear. Entitled ‘Dead Inside’ this is a collection born out of YMC designer Moss’ frustration and lack of inspiration from modern culture. Resulting in a collection inspired by Moss’ response to looking back to the beginning and revisiting all the things that inspired YMC’s creation.

For A/W 13-14 YMC looked back to the rich sub cultural aesthetics of the post-punk era. The resulting collection saw models styled in art-house berets, as a statement of intent representing the freedom, revolution and the rebellious attitude of youth culture. Which included a slick zip accented black leather jacket, tailored work-wear teamed with buttoned down linen shirt, pinstripe double-breasted suit, statement multi zip black parachute chinos, a quilted bomber and pajama-esque blazer, modernist sport bottle green tracksuit, wax wool and leather trimmed covert coat, checkerboard waxed parka. Whilst knitwear remained a key element for the label, from a bottle green mohair granddad cardigan, thick space-dye crew necks, waffle scarf and jumper twin-set, zip minimal cardigans, to thick knits with boyhood hexagonal and argyle prints.

LCM Street Style A/W 13 - Urban Ski

Straight off the alps this look teams ski sports elements to streetwise shapes. Teaming a square beaked cap under a burnt orange over-sized hooded cagoule, graffiti & paint splashed draw string shorts and accessorized with a pink furry backpack and fuchsia and black hybrid trainers.

LCM Presentation: Mr Porter Collaboration

Mr Porter launched an extra special capsule collection to mark the 2nd ever London Collections Men, producing a series of collaborations with London based designers Matthew Miller, Katie Eary, Richard Nicholl and Sibling.

The presentation was held in the Alison Jacques art gallery, where scrumptious tea and crumpets were served. Inside umbrellas levitated from the ceiling, whilst models stood in classic British red telephone boxes each wearing a different look from the collection. Each designer had three tops each, varying from knitwear; t-shirts and sweaters inspired by their s/s 13 collections. Matthew Miller offered a sweater and t-shirts with playful sci-fi foil pockets, Katie Eary produced a selection of punchy baroque digital prints, Richard Nicoll chose graphic cotton jersey, while Sibling producing a series of knitwear staples in their signature leopard print.

Available online Mr Porter http://www.mrporter.com/Shop/Designers/London_Collections_Men

London Collections Men A/W 13 - Martine Rose

Martine Rose’s A/W 13 collection was anything but conventional, from the conceptual installation to the exploration and introduction of new masculine shapes. Martine Rose aimed to think outside the box, producing a highly orchestrated installation located in the BFC’s hospital club show space. A room set up with sporadic armchairs, tables, TV screens and a rotating wheel sets the scene, models come out slowly one by one styled in Britpop-esque bowl haircuts in tribute to the 90’s macho lad.

Inspired by the exploration of masculinity and what it is to be a man, the collection doesn’t just focus on the clothes. Looking at the iconography of the common man, particularly those on the edge of society from football goers, local pub folk to the urban streets. So in turn the collection felt like a journey through masculine archetypes first up was 90’s Britpop in various versions in baggy blue denim jeans teamed with incredibly intricate beer mat hoodies, blousons and trousers. Next was streetwise skater styling teaming cropped denim jackets and parkas placed over hoodies and finished with super baggy trousers in fluid leather. The last looks dealt with the seventies, reinterpreting seventies post hippy silhouettes from big collared printed shirting, thick knitwear, white long t-shirts to classic orange lined grungy parkas. 

This is definitely another success in Martine Rose’s continued fascination with male subcultures.

London Collections Men A/W 13 - Astrid Andersen @ MAN

Astrid Andersen opened the MAN show during the London collection menswear schedule. Dishing up the newish editions to her signature interpretation of streetwise sportswear.  Exploring the concept of vanity as an extreme sport, as continuation of her fascination with bodybuilders.

A/W 13 saw the Introduction of luxurious fabric choices, from a bomber jacket with cuddly teddy bear paneling, Japanese silk jersey tees, long-line denim shirting, crushed velvet tracksuits to luxe cashmere knits with fur trims. Whilst silhouettes continued in the same vain as Andersen’s previous seasons experimenting with sportswear shapes, which included dark denim all-in-one play-suits, boxy collegiate t-shirts, padded paneled hoodies to bomber jackets with fur contrast sleeves.

LCM Street Style A/W 13 - Equestrian Dandy Espionage

Equestrian style is the key foundation to this street style look, conjuring up visions of great Lords of the past. Teaming an equestrian peaked wool cap, a long line double-breasted short suit with a purist roll neck and waistcoat combo and finished off with school boy knee length socks, floral brogues and a patent leather sandwich bag from Jil Sander.

London Collections Men A/W 13 - Craig Green @ MAN

Fresh out of Central Saint Martins Craig Green earned himself a debut spot on MAN at London Collections Men this season. For A/W 13 Craig Green successfully managed to combine wearable fashion with fine art in his conceptual catwalk show inspired by “shadows and reflections”. In particular shadow, light and reflection is key, in a continuation of S/S 13’s fascination with shadows. This time around Craig Green creates a literal representation with each piece from the collection being replicated from purist pale colours to black. The collection showcased tonal ruddy deconstructed patchwork knitwear over long-line tunics, crinkled pleated polyester sweaters to wet look casual two-pieces.

London Collections Men A/W 13 - Agi & Sam @ MAN

After 16 seasons MAN has become one of the most interesting and important showcases of London’s menswear week (London Collections: Men). For those who aren’t aware MAN is organised by Fashion East and Topman who created the imitative in order to help both nurture and champion young and innovative menswear designers located in the UK.

This season saw Agi & Sam’s third foray within the MAN line up. Entitled ‘To the Peak, and Past it - Memoirs of a Duke’ a name taken from Seven Marquess of Bath’s autobiography, their A/W 2013 collection is a celebration of England. In particular the colourful eccentricities of the Marquess of Bath, who encompasses the changing fashion of the British upper-class with his unique and exuberant fashion sense, which both references and incorporates rural work-wear and English tailoring sensibilities.

This is a collection that combines two aesthetics farmer work wear and distinctive English gentry tailoring to create a unique twist. From a sportswear hybrid casual blazer in a striking yves Klein blue paired with a padded gilet, boxy long sleeve t-shirts in performance fabrics to tailored layering which saw a padded tartan waistline gilet teamed over a contrasting long line tartan overcoat. Whilst the remainder of the collection focused on a series of tailored updates from scuba-inspired statement zip-up back dark navy and green print blazers to the playful navy and yellow double-breasted blazer with statement padded arms.   

This is a collection that definitely boasts and highlights Agi & Sam’s talent for innovative menswear shapes, with print and pattern taking second base. Though prints still made an appearance with their use fun fox conversational prints across suiting to pheasants transformed into paisley.

From cheeky sideburns to models walking dogs this was a collection that celebrates the best of British eccentricity, while keeping true to their design aesthetic a true highlight of the season.

LCM Street Style A/W 13 - Modernist Swagger

Whilst the backward baseball cap and bomber jacket say streetwise subculture swagger the other half is full of modernist sportswear aesthetics.  Teaming a two-tone striped modernist bodysuit and a sheer navy performance t-shirt with a pair of hybrid prada levitate trainer/loafers.

LCM Street Style A/W 13 - Cocoon Femme Suiting

Bucking the recent trend for black & white, we spotted this stylish chap teaming a masc-femme pink casual suit by J.W. Anderson with a yellow-pop tactile clutch, silver studded dandy slippers and palette cleansing white shirt on the streets during London Collections men.

LCM A/W 13 Editor’s Pick: Topman Design Over-sized Rucksack

Nomad and exploration aesthetics were key to Topman Design’s A/W 13 collection. In particularly we chose an over-sized rucksack as our editor’s pick, combing a structured shape with a fresh neutral palette of creams, statement silver foil pockets and brown strapping.