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Joseph Turvey’s recognition and profile has deservedly continued to grow in stature ever since he debuted his designs during the menswear ones to watch, back when LCM was squashed into one day. Where his initial collection focused primarily on his talent for fashion illustrations, with which he applied to tongue-in-cheek matching two pieces, and t-shirts. The post follow-on collections have since progressed with the use of experimental uses of mesh and unconventional menswear materials, whilst continually exploring menswear surface design. Transforming illustrations into wearable clothing, be it Cruella De Vil style black dots to artistic digital floral and colour print Overlays.
So with Joseph Turvey’s Fall/Winter 2014-15 collection entitled ‘Cash In’ we look on to see how his progression unfolds. Aptly ‘Cash In’, Joseph explains is his chance to explore previous collections by deconstructing previous garment, technique and fabric in an aim to redefine his core themes into something more refined and more representative of where he envisions the Joseph Turvey brand progressing in the future. So you can’t be blamed to feel an element of Déjà vu throughout, from the peach lace sport suit first seen in his graduate collection, Spring/Summer 2013’s floral panelled shirts of to the illustrated portraits applied to sweaters and t-shirts which the brand has become synonymous with. This is a collection which is intended as a turning point in a young designers development, so ‘Cash In’ is exactly what it proclaims to be. A collection which sees Turvey show his develop through incorporating new advanced techniques of digital enhancements and hand embroidery to help enhance the colour and create a tactile texture.
So with the combination of his first major collaboration with River Island to launch in Feb 2014 and a collection, which celebrates his past, perhaps this is Turvey’s clean slate enabling him to create a new refined direction for his design.
Whilst varsity themes tend to be the mainstay of menswear season on season, this stylish guy we spotted in Brick Lane, London offers a darker bohemian direction. As he teams contrasting proportions with performance material choices in a neutral palette.
Following the successful 2011 launch of Magaret Howell’s first stand alone MHL store in Shoreditch East London. Margaret Howell has opened a second MHL shop in Marylebone, London.
Designed by William Russell of Pentagram Design, the New Cavendish Street store retains the beautiful original parquet flooring and wood shop front, whilst incorporating new birch wood shelving and stainless steel fittings.
Inspired by the ease and authenticity of utility clothing, such as work, sports and school wear, anyone shopping at the new MHL store is guaranteed to pick up a timeless staple. With the store stocking a collection of simplistic clothing enriched with a unique character - informal, comfortable with a youthful spirit. With classics such as the worker jacket, track pant and plimsoll being updated and made in lovingly chosen selected natural fabrics. Garments are re-produced using specialist manufacturing processes that pay special attention to finish and detail that has now become so synonymous with Margaret Howell design.
22 NEW CAVENDISH STREET
+44 (0)20 7487 3803
Pirate aesthetics are cleverly reinterpreted to create a street wear take on the traditional buccaneer. Teaming a straw textured Africana style parka, tapered black trouser with a black wide brim hat. Whilst accessories incorporate contemporary twists to classic pieces from camou patterned soles on a pair of black brogues to a safety-belt strapped clutch.
Pringle of Scotland debuted its Spring/Summer 2014 womenswear collection amongst the splendour of mirrored floors and walls of the connaught hotel’s mayfair room. With this season’s collection being a continuation of Massimo Nicosia’s challenge to combine Pringle of Scotland’s almost 200th year old archive whilst continuing to stay at the forefront of modernity.
Sportswear themes and innovative material treatments and techniques emerged as key influences throughout. As Massimo re-appropriates the brand’s iconic argyle diamonds as a thematic thread that repeats throughout pattern and materials and in turn creating an incredibly cohesive and fluent message for their Spring/Summer 2014 offering. With garments being stacked in other-worldly tactile surfaces, through obtuse pairings of contrasting textures. With a game of opposites being explored throughout with couture silk sits being fused with knitted jersey and macramé on a cool bomber jacket and skirt. Whilst Massimo’s fascination with opposite also being displayed through vented panels with exaggerated contrasting colour ways and trims, to inside-out inspired cutout raglan mesh placements attached to neutral lightweight diamond textured knits to splendid sculptural laser cut crochet detailed skirt.
This is clearly a collection that upholds Robert Pringle’s founding principles of quality, style, authenticity and innovation.
Fresh from completing an MA in Millinery from the RCA, Maiko Takeda’s interesting, frenetic headpieces created a well-deserved buzz at Topshop’s sponsored space, Newgen.
Movement, accentuation and clever contouring creates optical trickery, making the viewer really challenge what is before them. This almost sci-fi take on millinery commands attention, and will easily translates easily to haute-couture.
Seventies vibes echo through this colour popping power suited gentlemen we spotted at London Fashion Week. Teaming a vibrant cosmetic raspberry red single-breasted suit with statement accessories from retro round rose tinted sunglasses to ensemble matching vibrant trainers.
Ashish’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection was a continuation of his fascination with globalisation and nomadic and western fashion fusions. Alongside the strong urban street fashion styling made evident through a cool choice of half street cast models.
The collection followed on from Ashish’s previous use of Arabic repeat texts, patterns and layering from past seasons, this time Ashish is literal in his approach incorporating a series of tongue-in-cheek showpieces of Arabian-inspired jewellery including a bejewelled shoulder jewellery and golden crowns.
Coca Cola logos were seen on everything from racer-backed tanks, to red, white, and blue sequinned outfits, which nodded to the popular American soft drink. East met West themes were introduced through Arabic script repeats, and produced through sheer two-pieces to knee length abayas. Whilst the designer’s signature sequinned deconstructed denim came in streetwise bomber jackets, rustic hole ridden jeans and shorts.
Taken from Nicholas Kirkwood’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection we love the playful and vibrant colour blocking of these formal shoes.
This season Richard Nicholl showcased his men’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection simultaneously whilst introducing S/HE, a special unisex capsule collection in collaboration with British artist Linder. That saw Linder’s optic photo collage of snakes, hawks and men faces used on a variety street-wear silhouettes including hoodies, sweaters, t-shirts and on the backs of varsity jackets. Sighting the root of inspiration for this season’s collage prints as being derived from retro Seventies porn, being inspired by pictures he found in sex shops in Barcelona.
Whilst other aspects of the collection saw a continuation of his signature minimalist style, teaming lightweight mesh tops in cobalt with new camou/animal print pants, boiler suits in slate grey to slick wet look leather used on trousers or panelled on boxy tees.
Spotted at one of London’s foremost music festivals Lovebox, this stylish chap pairs a unique mixtures of super geek chic and summer floral blooms. From the pair of oversized black rimmed glasses, large floral bloom buttoned down short-sleeve shirt, tailored pleated shorts to the doodle worn white plimsoles.
Classic menswear footwear styles are re-approached through combining unconventional materials with an artisanal manufacturing technique for Diego Vanassibara’s unique collection of footwear.
As a graduate of footwear design and product development from London College of Fashion associated scheme the Cordwainers programme. Vanassibara has gone on to receive positive attention at previous two seasons of London Collections: Men.
Produced in a small family run company within Italy, the hides used in the Diego Vanassibara shoes and boots also come from Italy. Along with the wood placement pieces used in the collection come from a man-grown plantation of sustainable trees within the island of Java, where the wood is carved by a family that has been involved in carpentry for more than a century.
The shoes range from minimalistic batwing brogues in soft smoky blue and nude, navy textured loafers to utilitarian work wear boots in khaki and brown.
Undeniably this is the styling of a well traveled fella, who wears his cultural discoveries on his sleeves. Mixing up a whole melting pot of culutral references from the dark navy oriental silk kimono outerwear, tribal layered necklaces styled over a crisp white mandarin collared shirt to the statement furry feathered black loafers which finish off this look.
Agi & Sam remain one of the most prominent labels during the London Collections: Men schedule each season. Their youthful, lively aesthetic beams through the wades of menswear collections - creating their now signature designer aesthetic.
As two of the Agi & Sam X Topman dressed owl mascots sit front row, there’s a quiet nod towards the relationships between the recent high street collaboration and this Spring/Summer 2014 collection. Particularly the tailoring which includes brightly coloured suits in a variety of hues to print covered suits the duo have become widely known for.
Agi & Sam have gained a cult demand for their fun use of patterns and prints, even their recent collaboration with Topman chose to concentrate on zoomed in digital wool patterns and owl placements on suits and football inspired street wear. But although this has given the brand a unique stance in the current menswear offering, this has undoubtably dogged the duo with questions of what else can they do? What next? So as we view Spring/Summer 2014 collection there is a distinctive visual shift in direction following on from Autumn/Winter 2013 which sees their penchant for print take a step back. Instead Agi & Sam highlight their talented tailoring eye, introducing new elongated lengths, along with contemporary suiting and boxy shapes in a seduction selection of perfectly paired vibrant colours.
With the main stay of the collection concentrating on slim fitted silhouettes juxtaposed with boxy shapes, from knee length shorts and slim fit ankle grazing trousers paired with boxy sweaters over turtle necks to multi-layered sport inspired suiting. Whereas print and pattern is lifted from the everyday, with London transport’s lurid and distinctive seat patterns repeats being re-appropriated with a contemporary twist. Through long length boxy panelled sweaters, all-over printed suits with coordinating luggage to striped print blocking blazers.
Spotted on the streets at London Collections: Men S/S 14 we love the teaming of luxe claret and indigo Prada sandals with coordinating claret socks.