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For Martine Rose’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection we are again presented with a big brother inspired approach to the traditional idea of a fashion presentation. We are invited to view her living room style environment, with CDs, posters and furniture all sprawled across the presentation space at the hospital club located venue. As we are invited to guilty free watch a blonde wigged models every move, as he either lounges around reading a newspaper or stands on a revolving podium.
Inspired by her recent collaboration with contemporary furniture designer Ligne Roset, Martine Rose sort to emulate the way in which our spatial interiors might reflect on our personal interiors. With the humble chair being the key focus, made most evident through graphic tees, which utilised mixed media chair collages and attached with Gaffer tape looking DIY tape. Whilst the use of lace, satin and ribbon trimmings on shirting, shorts and accessories was a subtle nod to a curtained-window and in-turn a continuation of Martine Rose’s idea of masculinity in society today. Other key looks included denim super wide legged 3/4 length shorts, 70’s revival wide-legged white trousers to Sport-esque jumpers were unconventional in shape and defied the norm.
Presented by GQ China, Hong Kong native Kay Kwok showcased his Spring/Summer 2014 collection at London Collections: Men. Recent London Collection of Fashion master’s graduate Kay Kwok has garnered a unique aesthetic for patterns inspired by futuristic and cosmic patterns.
With ancient Egyptian religious and cosmology being a key foundation for fuelling his internal cog. In particular the mysterious story behind Sphinx, the relation between the process of mummy erosion and the system of Ancient Egyptian’s constellation like Ancient culture of Solar, Lunar & Stellar story. Combining these concepts ideas into tangible prints which play with shades, light and flame in order to push the barriers of digital printing, whilst updating and re-inventing classic menswear tailoring.
And so this sets the tone for his Spring/Summer 2014 collection, which sees Kwok continue to utilise the same futuristic inspired prints but with a fresh start, with Kwok attempting to move away from the thing he has become best known for. A collection that sees the designer steer towards a much more subtle, striped back and disciplined design approach, sharp tailoring, knitted tunics, wide-legged trousers, panelled contrasting leather t-shirts and neoprene short two-pieces are presented in neutral colour hues of sand dune beiges, blacks and whites.
Whilst the other half of the collection saw Kwok’s signature cosmic prints and patterns freshened up with a more wearable direction through superfine neoprene suiting and summery t-shirts and tanks.
Whilst one half of this ensemble screams sci-fi femme, the other half dips into demure ladies who lunch. A perfect conflict of new and old, this stylish futuristic lady teams sci-fi oval silver framed sunnies, quilted silver foil sweater over a fluorescent green t-shirt, black loose jeans, hyper-real bright tri monk strap shoes with a vintage plush fur coat and needlepoint bag.
"Generation Content/Content Generation" is the statement of intent menswear designer Matthew Miller has set for his A/W 13 collection. A collection triggered by Miller’s belief that the hip Generation X is merely a notion of rebellion and is in turn a forty years out-of-date ideology, a collection that reclaims and re-appropriates Generation X’s uniform.
Sound-tracked by teenage angst idols Nirvana, Generation X inspired uniforms are updated into contemporary utilitarian interpretations of tailoring, suits, overcoats and raincoats. One by one models in a largely black-orientated palette came out, every bit the vision of chic modern rebels in a series of sporting slick updated tailoring and knitwear emblazoned with the reoccurring slogan “Born To Fail”. Embossed crocodile leather reoccurs throughout from a rebellious biker jacket to modernist paneling on sweaters and t-shirts, a representation of Generation Y’s disregard for endangered species. Whilst other highlights included sporty military styles from wool suits paired with over-sized backpacks to red sport stripe placement blazers.
Even with the complexities of Matthew Miller’s concept, this is easily his most approachable and wearable collection to date. Producing a strong mix of smart sportswear and tailoring hybrids, a perfect wardrobe for the modern 2013 man.
Inspired by the first of the snowy showers currently outside the LSJ office, this stylish chap’s unique take on novelty winter jumpers is making us totally jealous. Teaming a Shaun Samson oversized furry voodoo print sweater, casual 50’s blue denim turn-ups and finished off with smart smoky blue and alert orange trim boaters.
Nicole Farhi’s presentation during London Collections Men felt like a new beginning, as January 2012 saw a new owner of Nicole Farhi take over and subsequently appointed a new creative director too: Joanna Sykes of Aquascutum. Starting a new chapter was the plan and so this was a stripped back presentation compared to the usual full blow catwalk show during Milan fashion week, consisting of a modest capsule collection.
The label’s production is a key change, with eighty percent of all production being now produced in Italy, an attempt to step back to Nicole Farhi’s luxurious sensibility. A move that saw a collection which strongly focused on exquisitely produced separates, from sharp neutral single-breasted tailoring, chunky cable knits, contrast stripe shirting, slim fitting trousers, a cashmere-blend smoky lavender pea coat, leather and shearling aviator to a boyish geometric black & white jumper.
YMC (You Must Create) has quietly become one of London’s must visit menswear shopping destinations. Founded in 1995 by Fraser Moss and Jimmy Collins, the label initially took inspiration from work wear, the football terraces of the early 80s, the tradition of outward bound attire and American and British military wear. Entitled ‘Dead Inside’ this is a collection born out of YMC designer Moss’ frustration and lack of inspiration from modern culture. Resulting in a collection inspired by Moss’ response to looking back to the beginning and revisiting all the things that inspired YMC’s creation.
For A/W 13-14 YMC looked back to the rich sub cultural aesthetics of the post-punk era. The resulting collection saw models styled in art-house berets, as a statement of intent representing the freedom, revolution and the rebellious attitude of youth culture. Which included a slick zip accented black leather jacket, tailored work-wear teamed with buttoned down linen shirt, pinstripe double-breasted suit, statement multi zip black parachute chinos, a quilted bomber and pajama-esque blazer, modernist sport bottle green tracksuit, wax wool and leather trimmed covert coat, checkerboard waxed parka. Whilst knitwear remained a key element for the label, from a bottle green mohair granddad cardigan, thick space-dye crew necks, waffle scarf and jumper twin-set, zip minimal cardigans, to thick knits with boyhood hexagonal and argyle prints.
Spotted at London Collection Men we spotted this stylish chap wearing a fusion of Dick Tracy tailoring juxtaposed with eastern prints. Teaming a fedora with white sci-fi inspired sunglasses, camel overcoat, white shirt, east meets west single breasted suit, brown crocodile luxe leather tote and gold studded brogues.
Straight off the alps this look teams ski sports elements to streetwise shapes. Teaming a square beaked cap under a burnt orange over-sized hooded cagoule, graffiti & paint splashed draw string shorts and accessorized with a pink furry backpack and fuchsia and black hybrid trainers.
Mr Porter launched an extra special capsule collection to mark the 2nd ever London Collections Men, producing a series of collaborations with London based designers Matthew Miller, Katie Eary, Richard Nicholl and Sibling.
The presentation was held in the Alison Jacques art gallery, where scrumptious tea and crumpets were served. Inside umbrellas levitated from the ceiling, whilst models stood in classic British red telephone boxes each wearing a different look from the collection. Each designer had three tops each, varying from knitwear; t-shirts and sweaters inspired by their s/s 13 collections. Matthew Miller offered a sweater and t-shirts with playful sci-fi foil pockets, Katie Eary produced a selection of punchy baroque digital prints, Richard Nicoll chose graphic cotton jersey, while Sibling producing a series of knitwear staples in their signature leopard print.
Available online Mr Porter http://www.mrporter.com/Shop/Designers/London_Collections_Men
Martine Rose’s A/W 13 collection was anything but conventional, from the conceptual installation to the exploration and introduction of new masculine shapes. Martine Rose aimed to think outside the box, producing a highly orchestrated installation located in the BFC’s hospital club show space. A room set up with sporadic armchairs, tables, TV screens and a rotating wheel sets the scene, models come out slowly one by one styled in Britpop-esque bowl haircuts in tribute to the 90’s macho lad.
Inspired by the exploration of masculinity and what it is to be a man, the collection doesn’t just focus on the clothes. Looking at the iconography of the common man, particularly those on the edge of society from football goers, local pub folk to the urban streets. So in turn the collection felt like a journey through masculine archetypes first up was 90’s Britpop in various versions in baggy blue denim jeans teamed with incredibly intricate beer mat hoodies, blousons and trousers. Next was streetwise skater styling teaming cropped denim jackets and parkas placed over hoodies and finished with super baggy trousers in fluid leather. The last looks dealt with the seventies, reinterpreting seventies post hippy silhouettes from big collared printed shirting, thick knitwear, white long t-shirts to classic orange lined grungy parkas.
This is definitely another success in Martine Rose’s continued fascination with male subcultures.
Astrid Andersen opened the MAN show during the London collection menswear schedule. Dishing up the newish editions to her signature interpretation of streetwise sportswear. Exploring the concept of vanity as an extreme sport, as continuation of her fascination with bodybuilders.
A/W 13 saw the Introduction of luxurious fabric choices, from a bomber jacket with cuddly teddy bear paneling, Japanese silk jersey tees, long-line denim shirting, crushed velvet tracksuits to luxe cashmere knits with fur trims. Whilst silhouettes continued in the same vain as Andersen’s previous seasons experimenting with sportswear shapes, which included dark denim all-in-one play-suits, boxy collegiate t-shirts, padded paneled hoodies to bomber jackets with fur contrast sleeves.
We were happily surprised to see London based menswear designer Qasimi Homme pop-up on the London collections: men schedule for the first time. Showcasing a special capsule collection presentation a head of Paris fashion week’s full A/W 13 catwalk show.
Creative lead behind Qasimi Homme, Khalid Al Qasimi originally from Sharjah in the United Arab Emirates moved to London when he was nine year old. After graduating from a Fashion course at Central Saint Martins, Khalid founded his initially womenswear focused label in 2008 debuting the collection during London Fashion Week. After an offer to show on schedule at Paris Menswear Fashion Week, Qasimi made a decision to put the womenswear line on hold for the time being and thus Qasimi Homme was born with a debut catwalk show during the June 2009 season.
Located in the Elms Lester painting rooms, we climb a narrow old stairwell to enter a bustling narrow attic of models and fashion press nudging to get a better view. This is a what Qasimi Homme do best youthful edgy menswear with plenty of attitude, as we walk through the collection we are greeted with hollow cheeked models with faces covered in wet locks of hair, who aided with a stark colour palette of bottle green, blue teal and black create a perfect eerie atmosphere. Autumn/Winter 13 is a definite move away from Qasimi’s print and vibrant colour popping spring collection, with a collection that dissects the emotive, expressionist and controversial psychotic nature of man, taking particular inspiration from film noir’s such as ‘The Third Man’.
For the most part A/w 13 focuses on updated traditional menswear classics, which included using unconventional fabric choices throughout from shearling, sheepskin, silk jacquards and leather. Which included a fine leather and wool fused sweater, cropped bomber jackets, over-sized multi-fabric fused parka coat, tactile deep bottle green pony-skin winter tee to updated formal shirting with either pony-skin or leather detachable collars. While Trousers and shorts ranged from over-sized and wide legged with a slight flare to pleated slim-fit, to contemporary tailoring came in the form of a thick wool three-piece teal suit.
All images by The London Style Journal except the first courtesy of Qasimi Homme
Equestrian style is the key foundation to this street style look, conjuring up visions of great Lords of the past. Teaming an equestrian peaked wool cap, a long line double-breasted short suit with a purist roll neck and waistcoat combo and finished off with school boy knee length socks, floral brogues and a patent leather sandwich bag from Jil Sander.
Fresh out of Central Saint Martins Craig Green earned himself a debut spot on MAN at London Collections Men this season. For A/W 13 Craig Green successfully managed to combine wearable fashion with fine art in his conceptual catwalk show inspired by “shadows and reflections”. In particular shadow, light and reflection is key, in a continuation of S/S 13’s fascination with shadows. This time around Craig Green creates a literal representation with each piece from the collection being replicated from purist pale colours to black. The collection showcased tonal ruddy deconstructed patchwork knitwear over long-line tunics, crinkled pleated polyester sweaters to wet look casual two-pieces.