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Rick Owen’s second collaboration with Adidas could easily have been transported from a intergalactic planet or Sci-fi b moovie. As Rick Owens’ takes inspiration from stealth bombers for his tech runner. As he uses oversized angular soles seen in black or white to the understated minimalist sleek detail seen in a reduced neutral palette.
Rick Owens continues to utilise innovative materials for the new range, combining high quality suede and leathers with sporty neoprene. Whilst the midsole is made of a one piece EVA with a full length outsole and a distinctive Rick Owens saw tooth profile. As well as featuring three perforated stripes and carrying the Rick Owens’ signature on the heel strike.
First presented this January during the Paris Menswear fashion week, the tech runner will be available mid July 2014 in black, black/bone, milk and milk/black, and costs around £390.
Joseph Turvey’s recognition and profile has deservedly continued to grow in stature ever since he debuted his designs during the menswear ones to watch, back when LCM was squashed into one day. Where his initial collection focused primarily on his talent for fashion illustrations, with which he applied to tongue-in-cheek matching two pieces, and t-shirts. The post follow-on collections have since progressed with the use of experimental uses of mesh and unconventional menswear materials, whilst continually exploring menswear surface design. Transforming illustrations into wearable clothing, be it Cruella De Vil style black dots to artistic digital floral and colour print Overlays.
So with Joseph Turvey’s Fall/Winter 2014-15 collection entitled ‘Cash In’ we look on to see how his progression unfolds. Aptly ‘Cash In’, Joseph explains is his chance to explore previous collections by deconstructing previous garment, technique and fabric in an aim to redefine his core themes into something more refined and more representative of where he envisions the Joseph Turvey brand progressing in the future. So you can’t be blamed to feel an element of Déjà vu throughout, from the peach lace sport suit first seen in his graduate collection, Spring/Summer 2013’s floral panelled shirts of to the illustrated portraits applied to sweaters and t-shirts which the brand has become synonymous with. This is a collection which is intended as a turning point in a young designers development, so ‘Cash In’ is exactly what it proclaims to be. A collection which sees Turvey show his develop through incorporating new advanced techniques of digital enhancements and hand embroidery to help enhance the colour and create a tactile texture.
So with the combination of his first major collaboration with River Island to launch in Feb 2014 and a collection, which celebrates his past, perhaps this is Turvey’s clean slate enabling him to create a new refined direction for his design.
When it was announced back in October 2013 that Jil Sander was leaving for the third time, the label fell into somewhat of a flux with no successor named and her in-house team left to picked up the Baton for the next season. So it’s no surprise that not since Jil Sander’s return has there been as much pre-show speculation and anticipation. So with bated breath the menswear Fall/Winter 2014-15 was showcased during Milan fashion week.
Jil Sander’s studio team focused on the core Sander aesthetics with a sold yet safe collection of outerwear, suits and knitwear. As subtle uses of unconventional material choices and dark moody colours upheld the contemporary yet understated feel many have come to expect from the label. Mineral colours such as bottle green, teal, grey and aubergine were seen on head-to-toe matching suits to graphic colour-blocking winter casuals. As the team used a bare minimal apparel surfaces to place primary focus on the sharp silhouettes, bar the fun and youthful checkerboard camel wool crew-necks. Elsewhere material textures came in a variety of forms from glossy shearling, rubber look anoraks, and metallic disco panelled trousers to squidgy leather coats.
Whilst this is definitely a collection that will keep most of the Jil Sander fans happy for now, but one can’t help arching back to the past where the element of the unexpected and progressive design innovation were more evident. Showing whilst the design team can create a solid collection, a creative director is needed to bring a unique spark, but with such high expectations this is sure to be a hard position to fill.
The second collaboration between fashion designer Raf Simons and sports mecca Adidas will be available in February 2014. First debuted in his Spring/Summer 2014 catwalk show in Paris back in June, Simons’ looks to 1980s futurism for inspiration. The nine different trainer options, make use of bold colour ways and contrasting colour blocking combinations, while materials used include a combination of mesh, leather panels and silicone details.
Following the successful 2011 launch of Magaret Howell’s first stand alone MHL store in Shoreditch East London. Margaret Howell has opened a second MHL shop in Marylebone, London.
Designed by William Russell of Pentagram Design, the New Cavendish Street store retains the beautiful original parquet flooring and wood shop front, whilst incorporating new birch wood shelving and stainless steel fittings.
Inspired by the ease and authenticity of utility clothing, such as work, sports and school wear, anyone shopping at the new MHL store is guaranteed to pick up a timeless staple. With the store stocking a collection of simplistic clothing enriched with a unique character - informal, comfortable with a youthful spirit. With classics such as the worker jacket, track pant and plimsoll being updated and made in lovingly chosen selected natural fabrics. Garments are re-produced using specialist manufacturing processes that pay special attention to finish and detail that has now become so synonymous with Margaret Howell design.
22 NEW CAVENDISH STREET
+44 (0)20 7487 3803
For Martine Rose’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection we are again presented with a big brother inspired approach to the traditional idea of a fashion presentation. We are invited to view her living room style environment, with CDs, posters and furniture all sprawled across the presentation space at the hospital club located venue. As we are invited to guilty free watch a blonde wigged models every move, as he either lounges around reading a newspaper or stands on a revolving podium.
Inspired by her recent collaboration with contemporary furniture designer Ligne Roset, Martine Rose sort to emulate the way in which our spatial interiors might reflect on our personal interiors. With the humble chair being the key focus, made most evident through graphic tees, which utilised mixed media chair collages and attached with Gaffer tape looking DIY tape. Whilst the use of lace, satin and ribbon trimmings on shirting, shorts and accessories was a subtle nod to a curtained-window and in-turn a continuation of Martine Rose’s idea of masculinity in society today. Other key looks included denim super wide legged 3/4 length shorts, 70’s revival wide-legged white trousers to Sport-esque jumpers were unconventional in shape and defied the norm.
Presented by GQ China, Hong Kong native Kay Kwok showcased his Spring/Summer 2014 collection at London Collections: Men. Recent London Collection of Fashion master’s graduate Kay Kwok has garnered a unique aesthetic for patterns inspired by futuristic and cosmic patterns.
With ancient Egyptian religious and cosmology being a key foundation for fuelling his internal cog. In particular the mysterious story behind Sphinx, the relation between the process of mummy erosion and the system of Ancient Egyptian’s constellation like Ancient culture of Solar, Lunar & Stellar story. Combining these concepts ideas into tangible prints which play with shades, light and flame in order to push the barriers of digital printing, whilst updating and re-inventing classic menswear tailoring.
And so this sets the tone for his Spring/Summer 2014 collection, which sees Kwok continue to utilise the same futuristic inspired prints but with a fresh start, with Kwok attempting to move away from the thing he has become best known for. A collection that sees the designer steer towards a much more subtle, striped back and disciplined design approach, sharp tailoring, knitted tunics, wide-legged trousers, panelled contrasting leather t-shirts and neoprene short two-pieces are presented in neutral colour hues of sand dune beiges, blacks and whites.
Whilst the other half of the collection saw Kwok’s signature cosmic prints and patterns freshened up with a more wearable direction through superfine neoprene suiting and summery t-shirts and tanks.
Pirate aesthetics are cleverly reinterpreted to create a street wear take on the traditional buccaneer. Teaming a straw textured Africana style parka, tapered black trouser with a black wide brim hat. Whilst accessories incorporate contemporary twists to classic pieces from camou patterned soles on a pair of black brogues to a safety-belt strapped clutch.
London based menswear designer Craig Green closed the Spring/Summer 2014 MAN show at London Collections: Men with a spectacular crescendo of models in head-to-toe tie-dye, with accompanying pattern matching fine-art sculptures. This was easily the standout collection amongst the three designers chosen this year, causing a real stir of excitement amongst the audience.
With a collection that demonstrates a real progression of technique and direction for the designer. Following on from the themes of his previous debut show with MAN for Autumn/Winter 2013-14, where light met dark in a clever fusion of art meets fashion. For Spring/Summer 2014 nothing has dramatically shifted only progressed incorporating splashes of vibrant hand-printed psychedelic tie-dyes in red, blue and yellow whilst being intermittently blocked by subtle shades of cream or black. But being seduced by bright patterns and sculptures is not all Craig Green has to offer; the real genius is seen through the layers and layers of garments which are painstakingly cut with fine contrasting textures. Whilst Green’s silhouettes demonstrate a particularly innovative incorporating an array of utilitarian and eastern inspired distorted proportions. From wide legged shorts are teamed over trousers, long line shirts styled under boxy jacket to contrasting cross grain suiting offers a utilitarian uniform.
Pringle of Scotland debuted its Spring/Summer 2014 womenswear collection amongst the splendour of mirrored floors and walls of the connaught hotel’s mayfair room. With this season’s collection being a continuation of Massimo Nicosia’s challenge to combine Pringle of Scotland’s almost 200th year old archive whilst continuing to stay at the forefront of modernity.
Sportswear themes and innovative material treatments and techniques emerged as key influences throughout. As Massimo re-appropriates the brand’s iconic argyle diamonds as a thematic thread that repeats throughout pattern and materials and in turn creating an incredibly cohesive and fluent message for their Spring/Summer 2014 offering. With garments being stacked in other-worldly tactile surfaces, through obtuse pairings of contrasting textures. With a game of opposites being explored throughout with couture silk sits being fused with knitted jersey and macramé on a cool bomber jacket and skirt. Whilst Massimo’s fascination with opposite also being displayed through vented panels with exaggerated contrasting colour ways and trims, to inside-out inspired cutout raglan mesh placements attached to neutral lightweight diamond textured knits to splendid sculptural laser cut crochet detailed skirt.
This is clearly a collection that upholds Robert Pringle’s founding principles of quality, style, authenticity and innovation.
Dynamism, multi-textures and acid colour pops set the scene for Leutton Postle’s collection of re-worked street wear.
Textile manipulation is key, with striking contrasts between the shiny, transparent plastic against dense, thickly worked embroidered appliques.
The collection infuses fun, with an essence of sub-cultural roots, disobeying the finely honed fashion rule book. In homage to Chanel’s signature quilting, Leutton Postle’s backpack humorously add a new spin to a functional garment.
A one to watch for the coming seasons, with potential not only for cool-kids.
Fresh from completing an MA in Millinery from the RCA, Maiko Takeda’s interesting, frenetic headpieces created a well-deserved buzz at Topshop’s sponsored space, Newgen.
Movement, accentuation and clever contouring creates optical trickery, making the viewer really challenge what is before them. This almost sci-fi take on millinery commands attention, and will easily translates easily to haute-couture.
Seventies vibes echo through this colour popping power suited gentlemen we spotted at London Fashion Week. Teaming a vibrant cosmetic raspberry red single-breasted suit with statement accessories from retro round rose tinted sunglasses to ensemble matching vibrant trainers.
Ashish’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection was a continuation of his fascination with globalisation and nomadic and western fashion fusions. Alongside the strong urban street fashion styling made evident through a cool choice of half street cast models.
The collection followed on from Ashish’s previous use of Arabic repeat texts, patterns and layering from past seasons, this time Ashish is literal in his approach incorporating a series of tongue-in-cheek showpieces of Arabian-inspired jewellery including a bejewelled shoulder jewellery and golden crowns.
Coca Cola logos were seen on everything from racer-backed tanks, to red, white, and blue sequinned outfits, which nodded to the popular American soft drink. East met West themes were introduced through Arabic script repeats, and produced through sheer two-pieces to knee length abayas. Whilst the designer’s signature sequinned deconstructed denim came in streetwise bomber jackets, rustic hole ridden jeans and shorts.
As quirky as ever, House of Holland failed to disappoint with a warm, fun and tongue-in-cheek collection. Flirty femininity takes precedence for Holland, with a none to subtle ode to the 1950s. Flirty full skirts, shapely pencil skirts and cheeky lace is adding va-va voom, stylized with tough modernity via tattoos, slick back hair and determined looking models. Reworked prints feature, with ginghams, rose print tattoo and Hawaiian prints all having undergone the House of Holland treatment.
Key looks channel DIY pattern dresses, cinching at the waist and buttoned down the front. Pseudo religious imagery, think the Madonna, the Mexican death festival and ithe iconic Baz Luhrman directed, Romeo and Juliet adds darkness and attitude to a collection that otherwise may err on the side of rockabilly.